Licorice Root for Skin: The Botanical Brightener for Uneven Tone & Dark Spots
Updated: 3 days ago
Try It Yourself: A Simple DIY Licorice Root Botanical Face Mask
Rooted Wisdom Botanical Brief™
By Petal & Root®
Glycyrrhiza glabra, commonly known as licorice root, has a long history in traditional herbal practices, but its place in modern skincare is more than a nod to botanical tradition.
Today, licorice root is one of the more interesting plant ingredients for addressing the appearance of uneven skin tone, discoloration, and post-inflammatory pigmentation.
Unlike some brightening ingredients that rely primarily on exfoliation, licorice contains naturally occurring compounds that interact with pathways involved in melanin production and inflammation. Among them, glabridin and liquiritin have attracted particular scientific interest.
The result is a botanical ingredient that can complement a thoughtful brightening routine without relying on aggressive exfoliation. But there is an important distinction to understand: licorice root is not one single standardized skincare ingredient. The form of licorice used, how it is extracted, and which compounds are concentrated can dramatically influence its activity.
Let's take a closer look at what makes this humble root so interesting for skin.
What Is Licorice Root?
Licorice root comes primarily from Glycyrrhiza glabra, a perennial herb in the Fabaceae family. Several Glycyrrhiza species are used botanically, including Glycyrrhiza uralensis and Glycyrrhiza inflata, but Glycyrrhiza glabra is particularly well studied for cosmetic applications.
The root contains a complex mixture of flavonoids, isoflavonoids, triterpenoid saponins, and other plant compounds. Researchers have identified hundreds of constituents across the broader licorice genus.
For skincare, several compounds are especially interesting:
Glabridin, a prenylated isoflavonoid associated with inhibition of tyrosinase and melanogenesis
Liquiritin, a flavonoid that has been investigated for its ability to influence pigmentation and melanin dispersion
Liquiritigenin and isoliquiritigenin, additional flavonoid compounds with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity
Glycyrrhizin and glycyrrhetinic acid, triterpenoid compounds associated primarily with licorice's anti-inflammatory properties
This complex chemistry is part of what makes licorice root so fascinating as a botanical skincare ingredient.
How Does Licorice Root Help Uneven Skin Tone?
To understand why licorice is used in brightening skincare, it helps to understand melanin.
Melanin is the pigment responsible for much of the color in our skin. It is produced by specialized cells called melanocytes through a process known as melanogenesis. One of the key enzymes involved in this process is tyrosinase. This is where glabridin becomes particularly interesting.
Laboratory research has found that glabridin can inhibit tyrosinase activity and interfere with several processes involved in melanin formation. Research has also demonstrated activity against UVB induced pigmentation in experimental models.
That does not mean applying licorice root to your skin will simply "erase" pigmentation. Skin pigmentation is considerably more complicated than a single enzyme or pathway.
Rather, licorice contains compounds that may help moderate some of the biological processes associated with excess pigment production.
This makes licorice particularly appealing in formulations designed to improve the appearance of:
Dark spots
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
Uneven skin tone
Sun induced discoloration
Dull, uneven looking complexions
The appearance of lingering marks after blemishes
Glabridin: One of Licorice's Most Interesting Skin Compounds
If you have encountered licorice root in brightening skincare, you have probably seen the name glabridin.
Glabridin is a naturally occurring isoflavonoid found in Glycyrrhiza glabra root. It has been extensively studied for its effects on melanogenesis, inflammation, and oxidative processes.
Research has demonstrated that glabridin can inhibit tyrosinase activity in experimental models. One study also found that topical application of 0.5% glabridin reduced UVB induced pigmentation and erythema in guinea pig skin.
That is promising, but it is important to keep the evidence in perspective.
A laboratory study is not the same thing as a clinical trial in humans.
Much of the evidence surrounding glabridin's pigmentation benefits comes from laboratory, cellular, animal, or small human studies. Reviews of botanical treatments for hyperpigmentation consistently point out that more robust clinical research is still needed.
This is exactly why we prefer to describe licorice as an ingredient that can help improve the appearance of uneven pigmentation and support a more even looking complexion, rather than promising that it will eliminate dark spots.
Licorice Root and Inflammation
Licorice's appeal does not stop with pigmentation. Some of its constituents have demonstrated anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity. This is especially interesting because inflammation and pigmentation are often connected.
When skin experiences inflammation or injury, melanocytes can become more active, potentially contributing to the development of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, the persistent darkening that can remain after blemishes, irritation, or other inflammatory events.
Glabridin and other licorice constituents have demonstrated anti-inflammatory activity in experimental research. This gives licorice a particularly useful role in a brightening routine: rather than approaching uneven tone exclusively through exfoliation, a formula can incorporate ingredients that address several contributing factors at once.
That is one reason licorice pairs so well conceptually with other gentle brightening and antioxidant ingredients.
Liquiritin: Another Licorice Compound Worth Knowing
Glabridin gets most of the attention, but it is not the only interesting compound in licorice.
Liquiritin has also been investigated for its effects on pigmentation. Unlike glabridin, which is primarily discussed for its effects on tyrosinase and melanogenesis, liquiritin has been studied for its ability to influence the distribution and removal of melanin within the skin.
Small clinical studies have reported improvements in melasma with topical liquiritin preparations, although the overall clinical evidence remains limited and formulations used in these studies can contain additional active ingredients.
This is an important reminder that the phrase "licorice extract" does not tell us everything about a product.
Two licorice extracts can have very different chemical profiles depending on:
The species used
The plant part used
The extraction solvent
The extraction process
Standardization
Concentration of specific compounds
The stability of those compounds within the finished formulation
In other words, not all licorice extracts are interchangeable.
Licorice Root Powder vs. Licorice Extract
This distinction is especially important when making botanical skincare at home.
Licorice root powder is simply powdered botanical material. It contains a broad mixture of naturally occurring constituents, but its concentration of specific compounds such as glabridin can vary.
A licorice root extract, on the other hand, has been processed using a specific extraction method designed to draw particular constituents from the plant.
Some cosmetic ingredients are further standardized or enriched for specific compounds.
Therefore, a DIY mask made with licorice root powder should not be described as equivalent to a professionally formulated serum containing a standardized glabridin rich licorice extract.
The botanical is the same general source, but the chemistry and delivery can be very different.
This is one of those places where "natural" does not automatically mean "simple."
Licorice Root in a Thoughtful Brightening Routine
Licorice can be especially useful when the goal is not simply brighter skin, but more even looking skin. For visible hyperpigmentation, a comprehensive approach generally makes more sense than relying on one ingredient.
A thoughtful routine might combine:
Brightening ingredients, such as licorice, vitamin C derivatives, niacinamide, or other well chosen actives.
Antioxidants, which help protect the skin from oxidative stress.
Gentle exfoliation, when appropriate, to encourage more even surface appearance without unnecessarily irritating the skin.
Barrier supportive ingredients, because healthy, resilient skin is better equipped to tolerate a well designed active routine.
And perhaps most importantly, daily broad-spectrum sunscreen.
You can use the most sophisticated brightening serum in the world, but continued UV exposure can work directly against your efforts by stimulating pigmentation.
For anyone specifically concerned with dark spots, hyperpigmentation, or melasma, sunscreen is not an optional accessory to a brightening routine. It is foundational.
Is Licorice Root Gentle Enough for Sensitive Skin?
Licorice is generally considered a relatively gentle botanical for topical skincare, particularly compared with aggressive exfoliating approaches. Its anti-inflammatory properties are part of its appeal. But "gentle" does not mean universally non-reactive.
Any botanical can potentially cause irritation or allergic reactions in an individual. This is especially important with DIY preparations because the final concentration, extraction, particle size, pH, and preservation are not standardized.
If you are using powdered licorice root on the skin for the first time, perform a small patch test before applying it to your entire face. And never use a DIY botanical mask on skin that is already irritated, compromised, sunburned, or freshly exfoliated.
More active is not necessarily better. With pigmentation, consistency and skin tolerance generally matter more than trying to force rapid results.
The Petal & Root® Perspective
At Petal & Root®, we love botanicals not because they sound beautiful on an ingredient label, but because plants contain genuinely fascinating chemistry.
Licorice root is a perfect example. It has a long history of traditional use, but modern research has also identified specific compounds that help explain why this botanical has earned a place in contemporary skincare.
At the same time, we believe in being honest about what the science actually tells us.
Licorice is promising, particularly for the appearance of uneven pigmentation, but it is not a miracle ingredient. The strongest evidence for individual licorice constituents such as glabridin and liquiritin does not mean that every licorice containing product will produce the same results. The quality of the extract, concentration, formulation, stability, skin penetration, and overall product design all matter.
That is the difference between simply putting a botanical on the label and thoughtfully formulating with it.
Bonus DIY Botanical Face Mask
Licorice & Oat Brightening Botanical Mask
If you want to experience licorice root in its simplest botanical form, this single use mask combines licorice root powder with soothing colloidal oat and aloe.
The goal is not to aggressively "bleach" or strip the skin. Instead, this is a gentle botanical ritual designed to leave the complexion feeling soft, hydrated, calm, and refreshed while incorporating licorice as a traditional brightening botanical.
Ingredients
Makes 1 facial mask
Licorice root powder: 3 g, 0.11 oz
Colloidal oatmeal: 5 g, 0.18 oz
Kaolin clay: 3 g, 0.11 oz
Pure aloe vera juice: 10 g, 0.35 oz
Distilled water: 5 g, 0.18 oz
Vegetable glycerin: 2 g, 0.07 oz
Total: 28 g, 0.99 oz
Why These Ingredients?
Licorice root powder: The star botanical, providing the naturally occurring compounds associated with licorice's brightening and soothing properties.
Colloidal oatmeal: Adds a soft, soothing component and helps give the mask a creamy consistency.
Kaolin: Provides gentle cleansing and oil absorbing properties without relying on a harsh physical scrub.
Aloe vera juice: Adds a water based botanical component and helps create a spreadable mask.
Glycerin: A humectant that helps attract water to the skin's surface.
How to Make It
Combine the licorice root powder, colloidal oatmeal, and kaolin in a small bowl.
Add the glycerin and mix thoroughly.
Slowly add the aloe vera juice and distilled water while stirring.
Continue mixing until you have a smooth, creamy paste.
Allow the mixture to sit for approximately 2 to 3 minutes so the oat and botanical powders can hydrate.
Apply a thin, even layer to clean, dry skin, avoiding the eye and lip areas.
Leave on for approximately 5 to 10 minutes.
Do not allow the mask to become completely dry and tight on the skin.
Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water.
Follow with a hydrating serum or moisturizer.
A Few Important DIY Notes
This recipe is intentionally designed as a single-use mask. Because it contains water, aloe vera juice, and botanical powders without a broad-spectrum preservative system, it should not be stored for later use. Make it fresh, use it immediately, and discard any remaining product.
Do not substitute a cosmetic licorice extract for the licorice root powder at the same weight. Extracts vary considerably in strength, solvent system, and recommended usage rate. And while this mask can be a lovely addition to a botanical self care ritual, it should not be considered a treatment for melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, or another dermatological condition. For persistent or significant pigmentation, professional evaluation is worthwhile.
How Often?
For most skin types, once weekly is a reasonable starting point. If your skin is particularly sensitive, begin every other week and see how your skin responds.
There is no advantage to turning a gentle botanical mask into a daily treatment. More frequent application does not necessarily mean faster brightening, and irritation can actually make pigmentation more difficult to manage.
The Bottom Line
Licorice root is one of those botanicals that deserves more than a superficial "natural brightener" label. Its chemistry is genuinely interesting. Compounds such as glabridin and liquiritin have demonstrated activity relevant to melanogenesis, pigmentation, oxidative stress, and inflammation, while early clinical research suggests that certain licorice-derived preparations may help improve the appearance of hyperpigmentation.
Licorice is not a magic eraser for dark spots.
It is better understood as a botanical ingredient that may help support a more even looking complexion when used consistently as part of a well formulated skincare routine. And that is precisely what makes it interesting.
Sometimes the most compelling ingredients are not the ones making the biggest promises. They are the ones with chemistry worth understanding.
Stay Radiant,
References
Yokota, T., Nishio, H., Kubota, Y., & Mizoguchi, M. "The inhibitory effect of glabridin from licorice extracts on melanogenesis and inflammation." Pigment Cell Research, 1998.
Simmler, C., Pauli, G. F., & Jaki, B. U. "Phytochemistry and Biological Properties of Glabridin." Phytochemistry, 2013.
Draelos, Z. D. and related literature summarized in "Are Natural Ingredients Effective in the Management of Hyperpigmentation? A Systematic Review." Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 2018.
"Postinflammatory Hyperpigmentation: A Review of the Epidemiology, Clinical Features, and Treatment Options in Skin of Color." Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology.
"Liquorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra): A phytochemical and pharmacological review." Phytotherapy Research.
"Review on the Diverse Biological Effects of Glabridin." International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2023.
Jafry, S. et al. "A practical guide to over-the-counter treatments for hyperpigmentation." JEADV Clinical Practice, 2024.
Nie, et al. "A Narrative Review of the Multi-Target Mechanisms of Glabridin in Skin Lightening." 2026.
